Paris Pâtisseries :: The Sweetest Images of 2011
By Paris Pâtisseries in Special Features
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With just a few days left to 2011, I thought it would be fitting to pause and reflect on my gluttony of the last year. But how do you capture the spirit of shameless excess? And is that really, at its core, what I share with you? The more I thought about it, the more I realized that what I’m always trying to express is the beauty of food – or, in my case, pastries, chocolate and confections. Minus the context of dinnerware, a rustic table, fine silver, napkins, or any other accompaniments and embellishments, the work is completely denuded. Shot on neutral grays and blacks, sliced open, and peered at from every conceivable angle, I often refer to my style as documentary food photography. When you or I get caught-up in these images, it’s not because I contrived a beautiful scene for you; it’s because an extremely talented chef created something remarkable for us. So here are some of my and your favorite views of their work in 2011. Thank you, chefs.
Clémentine Confite (top shot): Perhaps my greatest love of all that I ate in Paris, the clementines from Un Dimanche à Paris possess a sweetness matched perfectly by the intensity of their flavor. Opened-up, these Corsican lovelies just drip their sucrée nectar and entreat an overload of taste and sensation. For all the pleasure each has given me, I’m glad I could capture it in a moment at least half as beautiful as the clementine is sublime.
Brioche Feuilleté: I don’t know that I’ve ever seen the inside of any brioche – or any bread – look quite so fantastic, in the most literal sense of the word. La Pâtisserie des Rêves has given us something breathtaking.
L’Oeuf: Patrick Roger emptied a few thousand chicken eggs, then filled them chocolate and almond/hazelnut praline. I carefully peeled away most of the shell, but then I wondered what would happen if I just bit into it. I didn’t even plan to take a shot, but the way it fractured was so lovely that I had to get a few snaps of what was so elegantly inelegant.
Roulé Pavot: Emmanuel Ryon consistently blows my mind with his work at Café Pouchkine. There are several more of his pieces in the photos that follow; he’s just that prolific in creating pastry art. Here we have the flesh of a strawberry overlayed with gold. The colors and the contrast of textures are awesome.
Strudel: This is a simple side view of Monsieur Ryon’s Strudel at Café Pouchkine. Not only are the colors and textures fun, but the form itself is so architectural. I can’t wait to get back and see more of his work.
Gran Cru: I don’t think there’s a more amazing chocolate garnish in Paris. At once softly organic and structurally harsh, this crowning touch to Philippe Conticini’s Gran Cru at La Pâtisserie des Rêves is art, riding atop a gold-flecked deep-dark chocolate glaçage.
Hugo Arabica: I took this shot at such an extremely low angle that the black surface I shoot on turned white, bouncing white straight off the reflector I had behind it. The base of the pastry has an almost perfect reflection that creates this effect of a fossilized jaw – albeit one made of chocolate, crushed coffee beans and crisped rice.
Bonnat Trinité (chocolate bar): This is where my 105mm macro lens really comes in handy. I can focus down to about a 2cm space and have the main focal point be perfectly clear. In this shot of Bonnat’s Trinité chocolate bar, you can literally see the crystallization pattern that formed in the chocolate as it cooled.
Paris-Moscou: Emmanuel Ryon strikes again with this crowning touch to his Paris-Moscou choux. In my recent review of the piece, I described this scene as a pool of sugar, almonds and gold. Three of the finest things in the universe, together in one.
Victor Fraise (Tarte): Were it not for the number of Hugo & Victor pieces I shared in 2010 and all the ones I’ve been saving for 2012, I’d have a lot more of Hugues Pouget’s work to share with you here. Seen in this shot is an overhead view of his strawberry tarte – perfect rows of sliced Gariguette strawberries, garnished with thyme. Simple and beautiful.
Strudel: I just shared the side of the strudel with you a few shots above, but here we have the garnish. I consider it a perfect garnish, in that it’s only composed of elements that are all in the larger pastry itself: fig, pistachio, vanilla, raisin and deliciousness. You are a genius, Monsieur Ryon.
Victor Pistache: I’m in love with Hugo & Victor’s feuilletage caramélisée. It combines all the best elements of so many others, then strips out much of the fat and sugar. Unique without being bizarre on the texture and flavor fronts, it’s also just beautiful.
Émotion Vanille: It might not be my favorite thing to eat, but I appreciate the clean, modern composition of Monsieur Hermé’s work here. It’s just an awesome series of tones and textures.
Chausson aux Pommes: I’m not sure whether I’m captivated by the view here or by the memory of how amazing that particular bit of the La Patisserie des Rêves’ chausson aux pommes always tastes. Last April and May, enjoying it was a daily pleasure. The only reason I stopped getting them is that I started my croissant quest and didn’t have enough room left after the morning’s binge.
Charlotka: This is the final Emmanuel Ryon piece on the list. A mere 5 of my 17 favorite shots are from him. Wait until you see all the Café Pouchkine pastries I’ve set aside for unveiling in 2012. For now though, look how beautiful those apples are . . . and that star anise. So classy, Monsieur Ryon.
Tarte Céleste: Looking at this, it just hit me how different Pierre Hermé’s approach to color, contrast and form is than the other chefs. I could imagine Claire Damon, perhaps, putting something together this way, but I can’t imagine it from most others in the city. Note: After writing the preceding, I looked up Claire Damon’s bio, and it turns out she worked under Pierre Hermé for a time, which explains the resemblance. Does Monsieur Hermé’s influence know no bounds?!
Macarons Caramel: It might not be a finished piece, but it’s the lovely scene that precedes the creation of Pain de Sucre’s caramel macarons. It seemed somehow fitting to acknowledge how visually engaging all this work is, even before it gets blended, dipped, slathered on, or popped into the oven.
So there we go. I hope you guys have enjoyed this little year in review. And I especially hope you’ve enjoyed all the entries I’ve shared over the last twelve months. It’s too fun helping people plot their pastry-laden vacations, hearing about their experiences in Paris, seeing photos others share, reading nice emails from home and pro chefs who take inspiration from the Parisian treats I post, and getting to help some of you pros find your way into the kitchens whose work I share.
It’s also extremely fun to eat all of this stuff! So get ready for some of the best work, which I’ll start up with again, as normal, next Monday. Over the coming months, I’m also going to show you coffee roasting by France’s 2011 champion roaster, I’ll finally be sharing a recipe with you (arguably the greatest hot chocolate in the universe), and I’ll be taking you into the kitchens of Jacques Genin, Hugo & Victor and Un Dimanche à Paris. And the pastries … so many pastries.
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