Ladurée :: Millefeuille Cassis
By Paris Patisseries in Laduree
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Life in Paris for me was so hard. Every morning, I’d wake up in a huge, cushy bed and swing open a few sets of the floor to ceiling windows in my ultra-modern, refurbished 18th century apartment. Then I’d shower, dress, and have to make my way through the cobblestone courtyard of my building, before slogging a whole 3 blocks, passing Louis Vuitton, Dior, and the incredibly famous 6th century Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés . . . before finally making it to Ladurée. While there, I’d always feel pressured to flirt and chat with the salesgirls; and, as not be rude, I’d at least order a croissant à l’àncienne, kugelhof, and pain aux raisins-canelle. Then there were those days that really took an emotional toll on me, where it seemed as though I were being forced to buy a huge box of macarons or a fine assortment of pastries. The burden of carrying all those sweets was unbearable, so when I’d finally get in the door of my apartment, I’d practically collapse on the couch – but not before preparing an espresso and flicking on some music. After bingeing on the goodies, I’d always say to myself, “I just don’t know if I can do this again. This existence, if you can even call it that, is brutal.” Actually, wait . . . Correction: This was a fantasy lifestyle I lived, and I have no idea why the **** I ever came back. What was I thinking?! My morning routine was bliss, and once I exchanged smiles with that day’s pastry maiden, she’d always be eager to show off the latest treats. One particular day, toward the end of my Parisian adventure, I was ushered over to see the Millefeuille Cassis. Never one to turn down anything made of cassis, it was an easy sale. So what was the verdict? Well…
The cassis layer itself was resplendent. Intense flavor, tangy, and with just the right density, I couldn’t ask for anything more. Then again, I’ve been known to just suckle cassis syrup from a bottle, so my tastes might be a little skewed. The crème’s flavor, on the other hand, was completely imperceptible. Though this isn’t really a surprise. Very little will stand out against cassis. And the feuille were a bit overdone, which is rare for Ladurée, who tend to have an excellent control on that front. I’m sure it was just an aberration that day, and it honestly didn’t detract much from the overall experience. From a textural perspective, the feuille were flawless, but the cassis and crème made this “an oozer”. What is an oozer? It’s the type of millefeuille, or similarly texturally diverse pastry, which can’t keep its crème from shooting out from its sides on-bite. Not all millefeuille do this. And it’s actually kind of fun to eat something ridiculously messy sometimes, but I would prefer they hold it together more often than not.
Now, if you’re really into millefeuille, Ladurée is definitely the place to check out. I believe this is only the second millefeuille of theirs I’ve covered here, but they have everything: caramel-licorice, vanilla, strawberry, raspberry , coffee, cassis (of course) and more. Granted, there’s a high degree of seasonality to the selection, but they have more to drool over than anyone else.
And, if you’re even inclined to become a snobby pastry connoisseur, millefeuille are probably the best yardstick for comparing one shop to another. Virtually all patisseries carry a vanilla millefeuille, but there’s pretty wide variation in how the feuille are handled, as well as in the texture and flavor of the crème. Once you’ve discovered whose crème feels like paste in your mouth, whose feuille are burnt, and which crèmes seem indescribably bland, you’ll have a fair idea of how they manage their other patisseries. If a shop can’t handle a classic admirably, they’re almost certain to struggle with everything else.
One example might be Arnaud Larher, whose charfeuille . . . oops, I mean millefeuille are overdone. If you read the blog, you know how much I “love” his other pastries.
So, coming back to the Millefeuille Cassis here, it’s definitely one to grab. Though I should point out that if you don’t like cassis (blackcurrants), you won’t like this. If you’ve never had it, grab a cassis macaron from Ladurée or another shop, to dip your toe in the water. It’s one of the most polarizing flavors. If you don’t like it, you really don’t like it, but if you do like it . . . you love it.
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