I’ll always remember the first time I had Jacques Genin’s Baba au Rhum. This is mostly because it was the first baba He had ever served to a customer, and as the crew from France 4 flanked us, camera rolling for the debut tasting, Monsieur Genin waited patiently for my verdict. “Incroyable!” I said. He beamed. The day before, He’d had me up into His kitchen to taste the yet-to-be-released orange crème for the return of His Tarte à l’Orange, but He’d disappeared into a kitchen emergency before I had time to share my thoughts. So, in addition to my “Incroyable!” for the baba, I continued, “Et la crème d’orange hier . . . sublime!” He glowed. Was I lying for the benefit of the camera crew? No, are you kidding? He’s the greatest classic pastry chef in Paris. If anything, my comments were a gross understatement of how amazing it all was.

In fact, Monsieur Genin is so amazing that this coming Monday and Wednesday I’ll be sharing my two-part series of in-kitchen photos with the Master himself! That’s right. You heard me. It’s going to be a combined 33-photo spectacular of the Legend and His team. And, as is that weren’t enough, in late February, I’ll present a three-part series just on His shop and all the chocolates, pastries, caramels and goodies therein. For how mind-blowingly crucial Monsieur Genin is to the legacy of all disciplines He touches, it’s a shame no one’s done this sooner. Truly. It’s long overdue. But enough of me wagging my finger at those who don’t show His Greatness enough respect, let’s dig into Monsieur Genin’s Baba au Rhum.

Preeminent. Virtually every other pâtissier in the city should converge on the Place de la République and take turns slapping one another for what they call a baba. Monsieur Genin won’t even allow anyone else on His team to touch the thing. It’s 100% pure Masterwork. He readies a few cakes every morning, lovingly bathes them in an obscenely decadent 30-year-old rum and then personally assembles the pieces.

While I only enjoy liquor in desserts these days, I’ve been no stranger to fine rums, Scotches and vodkas. Biting into this Baba was about as top-shelf as you’re getting before He’d be forced to charge 20€+ for the honor or partaking in one. In fact, I’m surprised He’s turning a profit on these, as that rum is smooooooooooth. Yes, 10 o’s of smoothess. And the gâteau that’s soaked it all up? Perfection. Monsieur Genin has calibrated its exact moisture content, pre-rum bath, to ensure it achieves the most exquisite consistency once soaked. The mildly astringent quality of the alcohol and texture of the cake contrast so beautifully with the fairly dense and extremely-vanillaed crème at the heart of this little guy. All that then marries with the pillowy light plume of moderately vanillaed Chantilly, and the assorted tastes and textures rollick about your mouth, exciting and delighting you with every…single…bite.

The overall experience of the piece is . . . meditative. So calm, balanced and refined that I can see why Monsieur Genin saw fit to add the pineapple garnish. The glancing shocks of sweetness and acidity it provides remind you just how astoundingly and effortlessly mellow the rest of the piece is. Brilliance.

Just look at the shot below. It’s almost profane.

I usually show the cross-section shot last, but here I thought it fitting to show the aftermath. I would have licked the plate clean, had people not been watching. Number nine on my Top 38 Best Pastries in Paris list, you just don’t understand how good it is.

So, yes, you must head to Jacques Genin’s for a Baba au Rhum. Aim to arrive at about 1:30 in the afternoon, as He’s sometimes not quite ready with the cakes when the shop first opens. Take a seat in the dining area — as it’s not available to-go — and get ready to be thrilled. Don’t miss out on getting a lemon tarte and chocolate éclair, too. And, of course, make sure to snag some chocolates, caramels and pâtes de fruits. Did I just describe exactly what I’m doing as soon as I get back to Paris? Yes.

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