Ladurée :: Noix de Coco Macaron

By Paris Pâtisseries in Laduree, Pastry Reviews
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Ladurée :: Noix de Coco Macaron

This morning, I was all set to publish a tirade against Pierre Hermé’s asparagus macaron, but I decided an upbeat pro-Ladurée one better suited my mood – though I continue to be unsettled that Ladurée has more great macarons than any other shop. Because believe me when I say I would love to poke holes in anything they offer . . . if I legitimately could. Even if the presentation of their pastries is routinely a bit sloppy, they do have a lot of good work, often creative (without being weird) and a very consistent product. And their macarons are just . . . a delight.

Almost every other shop has macaron issues. I won’t call the establishments out by name, but here’s an itermized list of what most of the other big boys are doing wrong ;) : hollow macaron shells, overstuffing their macs, dry shells, fillings you cannot taste, shells that are way too delicate, bizarre textures, inane flavors/combinations. That’s not to say Ladurée walks on water. I think their cherry mac is really weakly flavored, the milk chocolate one is boring, and a few are a little too sweet. But you’re much less likely to be disappointed at Ladurée than anywhere else. And that brings us to today’s subject, Ladurée’s Noix de Coco (coconut) . . .

Ladurée :: Noix de Coco Macaron

Alanis Morissette would have appreciated the [situational/literary] irony present here. Sing it with me: It’s like a black fly in your Chardonnay. It’s like buying a coconut macaroon that’s still a macaron. Oh, Alanis! And despite besmirching the Parisian macaron tradition by drifting perilously close to our macaroon perversions, it’s quite tasty. Though I will say it actually has slid a little too far into that forbidden zone, as the sugar content is a good bit higher than it needs to be. Maybe that was intentional, as a way to sate less sophisticated Anglo tastes – but I think they could dial it back and still appease said savage palates. That issue aside, the coconut flavor is delicious, and there’s a wonderful grain and texture to the coconut “meat” in the filling. The shell? Standard Ladurée – complementing the coconut goodness within ever so well.

Ladurée :: Noix de Coco Macaron

I wish Jacques Genin would do macarons. He’s the one guy I bet could beat the **** out of Ladurée. Not only can I guarantee his process would involve fresh daily shipments of almonds, ground in-house and then incorporated into the mix – all within the span of 10 minutes – but the macs themselves would be texturally perfect. He would only do chocolate, vanilla, caramel, and lemon (if my hunch is right) – and they would all blow your mind. Not sure why he doesn’t already do them, since they do fit in with his pastry lineup, which is composed of 90% classics.

Ladurée :: Noix de Coco Macaron

But, yes, Ladurée’s Macaron Noix de Coco makes an excellent purchase. Definitely a good bit on the sweet side, it might not be the best one to get a box with it alone – but tossing a couple of these into the mix of a larger assortment would certainly be a fine way to go.

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6 Responses to “ Ladurée :: Noix de Coco Macaron ”

  1. Victoria says:

    Your irony comment on a macaroon macaron cracked me up. I swear, no American knows the difference. When I talk about the difficulties associated with making macarons, 95% of people here say "Really? I made those with my kids this Passover/Easter/Christmas/Random Sunday." Uh, right…

    • Gail says:

      As an American, I have to say that I must be the 5 % that was unable to successfully make macarons on the first or second try. Martha Stewart's recipe was a bust. I think the secret is the italien meringue. My third try involved letting them sit at room temp for about an hour. Success at last.
      I finally got the feet I coveted.

      • Gail, that's awesome. I often find Marth'a recipes to be not the greatest, though she does have some that have turned out awesome for me. Check out my friend Jill's book, Mad About Macarons, if you have not already and are interested in some cool recipes.

    • Thanks! Yeah, it didn't hit me until I started writing about the macaron . . . and I was all like, "Wait, this is kind of a macaroon!"

  2. Gail says:

    I have many questions for pastry chefs. Do they sell all the patisserie in the cases? What is the shelf life? What do they do with extras. Is it a good living?

    • Here are the answers! No, they do not sell them all. Some have a shelf life of 0 minutes, cause they are made on-the-spot (like Jacques Genin's millefeuille), others last only a day, and most last a couple/few days — and many are often made in advance and kept frozen until the day of sale. Extras usually get thrown out or eaten by the staff of the shops; I think they should give them to homeless people. It is a "good living" in the sense that if you love doing pastry, then you have fun. But it's an extremely demanding job that keeps people busy in the kitchen at all times, and there is very little money involved, unless you are extremely lucky and become famous.

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