Yesterday, I decided I was long overdue for a visit to Jacques Genin, which is coincidentally a mere 3 blocks from Popelini, a new shop that was woefully in need of a first purchase from yours truly. So I laced-up my Chuck Taylor’s, caved on buying a metro ticket, instead of hoofing it up to the 3eme, and made a morning of it all. Could it possibly top the day before, when I pulled-off one of the most awesome purchases of all-time for my sister-in-law, successfully scoring her a sweet 35cm black Birkin bag from Hermès? Well, yes and no.

The portion of my Sunday morning that rivaled the Birkin bag was tasting Monsieur Genin’s abricot and ananas pâte de fruits. I’ll always remember around 11:36am, when my life changed. Expect one of the most glowing reviews ever on the site, the day I whip those bad boys out. They were ultra-perfect. It didn’t hurt that I also repurchased some of his killer caramels, legendary éclairs, got to sample his fantastic Tonka bean chocolate, and then successfully scored a time-to-be-solidified photo session with the master himself. Great start to the day, as I’m sure you’d agree. Then it was off to Popelini.

Let me just preface the following by saying a few things. First of all, I think it’s awesome that anyone has the courage to start a new business and take the risks that come along with it. Secondly, the idea of a mini choux à la crème boutique, to counteract the dark forces of cupcakeries and the proliferation of whack macaroneries, is brilliant. Lastly, it’s a cute shop in a fun little neighborhood. However . . . the work isn’t where it could be. I purchased three rose-framboise, a violette, a caramel, a pistache and a vanille; they were all ok – better than average. The issue is that I could name 4 other patisseries, by flavor, where you could enjoy those same puffs executed far more adeptly.

If we break the bits down, problem #1 was the fondant – way too sweet and just texturally awkward. Whether eaten fresh from the case or at room temperature, it lacked the finesse I need to see. The pâte a choux itself was pretty good – fresh, tender, well-cooked – but the interior was just a downer. The crème’s rose tones could only be described as fleeting; present for a few seconds, before dissolving into almost nothing. The framboise within . . . technically well-balanced against the strength of the crème’s parfum, but given the lack of said rose tones, it all should have been played-up. The same goes for the other flavors I had. I felt like I was basically having the same experience with each, just with a tweak to the dominant flavor.

There needs to be more variety in the experience of each piece. I can’t help but think about the religieuse pistache at Carl Marletti, the choux on the Saint-Honoré pistache at Hugo & Victor and the choux pistache at Un Dimanche a Paris. They’re three different preparations of a pistache crème with three different sources for the pistachio. Same “name” to the flavor inside the pate a choux – but they’re worlds apart. Popelini should have an even more pronounced effect as you move from one work to the next. Trust the guy who just successfully referenced several pistachio puffs from across the city and who could keep going with a list of pistache experiences, were I not concerned about belaboring the point

So, no, Popelini has a great idea, but they need to fine-tune the approach before I send you guys there. It’s C+/B- work behind a great concept that deserves a more thorough effort. I’ll revisit them in a few months, but for now Jacques Genin and Pain de Sucre will be my only touted hotspots in the Marais.

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