Sadaharu Aoki :: Caramel Macaron
By Paris Pâtisseries in Pastry Reviews, Sadaharu Aoki
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I’ve been thinking I should start another blog that’s called “Oh, Sadaharu!”, where just the follies and masterpieces of Sadaharu Aoki are chronicled. As I’ve explained before, almost everything in the shop is either brilliant or a train wreck. So one week the “Oh, Sadaharu!” would be said in exclamatory praise, while the next week that same “Oh, Sadaharu!” would be said out of shame and disgust. Monsieur Aoki’s work is always an adventure . . . of one sort or another.
Last we checked in on the master’s work, I told you about his very unique and very tasty Sudachi. Though I’ve yet to make a return visit to the shop, as I’ve been traveling quite a bit outside of Paris recently, I fantasize about making a repeat purchase of it – asap. One thing I might not be as enthused about purchasing again are his caramel macarons, which will be the subject of today’s tongue-lashing…
I cannot believe I was sold these complete pieces of ****. The shells were like rocks. Appalling doesn’t begin to describe the quality. You’ll notice I couldn’t even get a clean slice in the final cross-section shot – after tries on 4 different macarons. Considering I’ve honed my technique to the point I almost always get a clean cut in 1 try, having 4 little orange bricks crumble beneath my micro-serrated ceramic knife of awesomeness is just insane. Then there was the flavor of the shells . . . which is not even worth commentary, because anything of that texture is not edible. Here it comes . . . “Oh, Sadaharu!” The caramel is the middle was at least vaguely redeeming. After like 2 hours of letting the macs reach room tempature, I was able to enjoy its sweetness and modest complexity. But I still found it a bit firm and lacking in appropriately nuanced character. These were no Ladurée or Pain de Sucre macarons caramel. No, sir. These were simply travesties.
The same day I purchased these abominations of pastry, I walked out with another 8 or so macs in my box. Among them was the macaron violette, which was simply a work of God. Not only is it pretty much guaranteed a spot in my forthcoming Top Macarons list, but it’s a contender for the 2011 version of the Best Pastries in Paris. As long as its tones and textures hold up on my second tasting, it’ll be in good shape.
So, no, skip the macaron caramel. It might well be that it was just a “bad day”, but at more than $2US each, I have no compassion. Perhaps the best thing to do is ask to sample one, and if it turns out as dry and disgusting as what I had, let its crumbs fall from your mouth onto the store’s countertop. Then flick a 2 euro coin onto the floor, as you walk out. Or, if you feel that is perhaps a bit too dramatic, smile through the pain and kindly ask for something else from the pastry case.
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