Now that I’m back in Paris, I’m finally getting to visit all the shops I missed on my last trip, as well as the newest pâtisseries. Some of the boutiques look even more fantastic than I expected – with pastries to match. Others are shockingly small or with much-hyped work that I’m starting to think has gained acclaim through the usual online and in-print mindless brown-nosing of renowned pâtissiers – with no actual basis in the quality of the products. It’s been an emotional roller coaster of crème pâtissiere and genoise!
Un Dimanche à Paris, along with Café Pouchkine, were at the top of my list of shops by which I expected to be dazzled. They’re the two highest-profile pâtisseries to have opened since I left last July, and both have big names in the pastry and chocolate worlds behind them. I was able to visit each on my first weekend back (along with 10 other boutiques), and out of sheer proximity to my apartment, have been back to indulge in Un Dimanche à Paris several more times. Needless to say, it’s been a pleasure. You’re going to see a lot more of them here on the site in the months ahead. And today, let’s enjoy Le Craquant Citron Vert-Gingembre . . .
Since white chocolate is involved here, I had to sample that before I took a bigger bite; you can tell a lot about a pastry by the quality of the chocolat blanc employed. It was extremely smooth, with only a hint of flavor and curiously sweet. As long as the rest of the pastry was full-bodied and tangy, that white would serve as the perfect backdrop. Guess what . . . it did.
Our powdery orb here was actually the fusion of two hemispheres: a lime mousse and a ginger crémeux. Nibbled-on separately, they were absolutely distinct; the ginger portion even had a delightfully cream cheese’esque zip, though the gingembre tones themselves were fairly subdued. Not subtle was the cheek-tingling wave issued forth by the citrus confit that held the sphere and white chocolate in place. That acidity left my mouth feeling nothing less than pleasantly assaulted. Yum. And last but not least, there was that wonderfully crumbly/crunchy base of sablé pebbles held deliciously together with cocoa butter. The Gestalt experience of Le Craquant was a delight of textures and a thoroughly entertaining performance for my taste buds.
In the minutes that followed my last bite, even as the lime tones began to subside, there was this persistent and electric sweetness that lingered from the white chocolate. I can’t remember the last time I’d experienced that. It wasn’t a flavor – something that’s an olfactory sensation – it was this delicate, but very present, sensation of sweetness. Highly enjoyable.
I’m excited to tell you all about the pistachio & red fruit choux from Un Dimanche . . . and about their Black Forest gâteau, with its fantastic Ecuadorian chocolate. But we’ll get to those other pastries in time. Since I have yet to eat everything in their pastry case (and, yes, I am quickly working on it), who knows what your next treat from Un Dimanche à Paris will be here on the site.
There’s so much more to share with you from other shops, too . . . and even more to share with you about the City of Light. Next week there will be 5 new entries! We’ll be biting into Pierre Hermé’s Métissé macarons, Jacques Genin’s mango-passion fruit caramels, one of Café Pouchkine’s lovelies and more. So check back in Moday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday for your daily dose of Paris Pâtisseries.
And, yes, if you happen to be in Paris or are on your way here soon, make sure to check out Un Dimanche à Paris and snag Le Craquant Citron Vert-Gingembre. And maybe have a seat in their lounge, as well, to enjoy some of the finest hot chocolate you’re likely to ever experience. It is a revelation.