La Pâtisserie des Rêves :: Tarte Framboise
By Paris Pâtisseries in La Patisserie des Rêves
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Fruit is delicate. It’s a sad reality. Every time I go to the grocery store and try to pick out a nice apple or carton of berries, I almost feel like giving up. There’re all these weird holes and spots or mold and stuff. Gross. Then my mind turns to Joni Mitchell’s line, “Give me spots on my apples, but leave me the birds and the bees…please.” Screw that; I really do want spotless apples. And when I’m in a patisserie and blowing 4 or 5 euros on a little treat, I want the most stunning fruit known to man. Yet, so rarely is it the case. Fortunately, La Patisserie des Reves cares and makes sure we’re supplied with only the most pristine specimens.
Immaculate fruit is among the many reasons you know I love my LPdR. When they’re not delighting us with innovative designs and flavor combinations, they’re proffering humble fraisiers and tartes. But, even though they’re humble, they’re never homely. Not once have I eaten or even seen unripe, spoiled or discolored fruit in their shop. Everything is always just right. And the Tarte Framboise here is a shining example of this attention to detail. Look at these raspberries!
Are there subtle impefections? Sure. But compared to other shop’s wares, where I’ve unwittingly photographed insects crawling on the fruit, LPdR is a revelation. This is the type of beauty you want to eat and savor.
As you might expect, the fruit here was a textural delight. I might actually say there was a bit too much fruit vs. the other tarte constituents, so the net texture balance was a little off, but it was also perfectly ripe . . . so kind of hard to complain. The shell itself was the usual LPdR – “solid”, pleasantly buttery, crumbly, neither too mild nor too complex. And the crème’n’frangipane combo – skillfully done. It’s basically a really well made basic raspberry tarte. Nothing like, say, Marletti’s use of raspberries in the Marie Antoinette, but what is?
Comparing this vs. Marletti’s work isn’t really fair though. It’s totally apples and oran… mmm… make that raspberries and raspb … uh…mmm… tartes and macaron sandwiches. That’s the ticket! It’s a tarte and macaron sandwich comparison. Can’t be done. Two totally different beasts. One is classic and refreshing, while the other is fancy-pants and sweet as can be. Both are excellent in their own way.
But back to the perfection of the berries . . . if you’ll indulge me. I know some of you think my tone a bit harsh, when it comes to folks like Arnaud Larher or Mulot. But it’s pieces like this from LPdR that make me feel justified. Why is one shop’s simplest piece executed with flawless berries, crème and frangipane, while another mysteriously sees fit to sell burned crème pastries? (Just click on the link; I have no idea how that even happens.) That’s why I eventually just concentrated my visits to the most high-end shops. I’d wasted too many afternoons photographing work from Carton, Blé Sucré and even Dalloyau, before I realized the photos were almost useless. After all, you guys want the fantasy pastries, right?!
So, yes, I definitely advocate purchasing the Tarte Framboise from La Patisserie des Reves. The only caveat is that they have so much more innovative and inspiring work, that you’re best off skipping this tarte until you’ve already had an in-depth experience with LPdR’s greater oeuvre. One bite of their Grand Cru, Paris Brest, or Alliance and you’ll understand exactly what I mean.
Feel entitled to enjoy pastries like this all the time? Then follow Paris Patisseries on Facebook. That’s where you can keep up with my latest pastry adventures and see extra goodies deemed too awesome for the blog.
