Archive for May, 2010
Arnaud Larher :: Le Récif
The Récif is like the sad, maladroit fumbling of a first year pastry student at a 3rd-rate culinary school. This is a piece almost completely bereft of anything redeeming, save a few scant nuts in the “brownie” base and a pleasantly warm, smooth and complex outer shell, albeit one that can only be savored when
Pascal Caffet :: Royal
I know what you’re thinking. I do. I know exactly what you’re thinking. Who would want to eat this? Worship . . . maybe. Inhale . . . quite possibily; I’m not going to judge. Marry . . . yes, if you live in Massachusetts. There is a whole range of activities in which you
Carl Marletti :: Belle Hélène
I stepped out of my apartment yesterday and directly into the type of Parisian morning people fantasize about – cloudless sky, birds singing, a cool 65 degrees. And as I walked through the little squares of crisscrossing streets by the Panthéon, the pink and purple buds on the trees, backlit by the sun, were .
Sadaharu Aoki :: Valencia
Anyone who’s been to Sadaharu Aoki’s shop will tell you there are three defined pastry shapes: domes, circles, and rectangles. It’s a very interesting rigidity, and I don’t know if it reflects a lack of originality, extreme OCD tendencies, or a belief that other forms serve little purpose. So when I went by his shop
Gerard Mulot :: Duo Poire Caramel
Fresh off the Eurostar after a long weekend in London, I had to re-Frenchify my palate. Shortbread and cinder toffee really can’t compensate for a lack of the above. Neither can the “fine pastries” of afternoon tea at Brown’s, Claridges, and The Dorchester. It was pretty humorous to see their ham-handed efforts, with only The
